← THE JOURNAL

FIELD NOTE / KIRGIZSKO / 6 MIN

5 things we learned riding horses across Kyrgyzstan

High valleys, no signal and a very patient horse.

5 things we learned riding horses across Kyrgyzstan

01

Time is relative

“A three-hour drive” can mean three. Or five. Or one extra high-mountain storm. Don't call it a delay. It's Kyrgyzstan.

02

A horse is not an attraction

It's transport, culture and, after a few hours, a very personal relationship between you and your thighs. Long trousers. Comfortable shoes. Leave the fancy outfits at home.

Riders waving on horseback, Kyrgyzstan

03

A yurt redefines luxury

No Wi-Fi, often no signal, but a view of mountains and a sky you simply don't have at home. On the first evening you look for internet. By the second, you don't even know where your phone is.

04

Tea is never just tea

When someone invites you for tea, expect tea, bread, jam, sweets, more tea and probably dinner. And when you say you can't eat any more, you'll get another dish.

Horseman on the steppe, Kyrgyzstan

05

You have to try kymyz

Fermented mare's milk. Taste-wise, it's exactly the moment your brain expects milk and reality has another plan. Definitely try it at least once

06

Ask first, then shoot

Kyrgyzstan is extremely photogenic, but people are not decoration. One question before the photo goes a long way.

Red canyon, Kyrgyzstan

07

Learn a few words

Salam – hello. Rakhmat – thank you. Your pronunciation doesn't have to be perfect. Effort works better than Google Translate.

08

Pack for every season

Sun, wind, rain, cold. Ideally all in one afternoon. Layers, SPF, sunglasses, a jacket, a power bank, a head torch. And optimism. It won't keep you warm, but it helps.

Group with horses at the yurt camp, Kyrgyzstan

NEXT STORY

What a week of surfing in Sri Lanka actually looks like →